National Tide 1980.

When it comes to restaurants in Beijing, older people know the old saying: "A restaurant is divided into two halves: the waiter and the chef."

It refers to the person in charge of the kitchen and the person serving customers in the shop, who are essentially one inside and one outside the shop.

The cook is in charge of internal affairs, while the waiter is in charge of external affairs. In terms of ability and skill, they each have their own expertise, so it's hard to say who is more important.

To borrow a phrase from the Peking Opera world, it can be called "one side is heavy" (a term used in the Peking Opera world to refer to the importance of a role on stage), meaning that the rise and fall of a restaurant depends entirely on this one side.

In addition, there is another saying, "A restaurant's success depends entirely on the chefs and staff," which also reveals the core elements of traditional restaurant management.

It emphasizes the importance of front-of-house service, but also takes into account financial management and kitchen production.

This means that these three elements are indispensable and together constitute the restaurant's competitiveness.

Finally, there's the saying, "A restaurant has three treasures: cooks, waiters, and tea servers," which is a consensus among the elderly in Beijing.

This means that for a good restaurant, in addition to having a skilled chef, attentive service from the waiters and politeness from the tea servers are equally important.

In short, these words basically enumerate all the secrets of Beijing's traditional catering industry.

But if you are observant enough, you can definitely extract a core message from these words.

That is to say, no matter what, chefs and service staff are the most important talents in a catering business. In other words, the quality of the dishes and the service of the restaurant are always the top priorities in the traditional catering industry.

Ning Weimin is no mediocre person; he is a true expert. He can figure out the most important factors for a catering business to thrive, even with his eyes closed.

Therefore, the changes he made after taking over Hongxinglou mainly revolved around how to improve the quality of the dishes and services.

It should also be noted that his taking over Hongxinglou was not simply a matter of turning this time-honored brand from a loss-making state-owned restaurant into a profitable private restaurant.

He also valued the historical background and cultural heritage of this time-honored brand, which made it one of the eight famous restaurants in Beijing, and the obvious geographical advantage of Hongxinglou in the Qianmen business district.

His grand ambition is to combine it with his cultural tourism industry, transform Hongxinglou into a unique chain brand, and seek greater and more stable benefits in the long run.

Therefore, his development plan focuses on how to restore and maintain the traditional character of Hongxinglou while also innovating and striving to differentiate itself from its peers.

First, let's talk about the improvements in service, which are not only reflected in the addition of service items.

For example, to make things more convenient for the locals, a takeout window was added at the entrance of the restaurant, selling relatively inexpensive and high-quality homemade side dishes and staple foods to nearby residents.

This is also reflected in the service methods, with particular emphasis on restoring traditions, such as "loud and bright kitchens".

Those unfamiliar with Beijing may not know that many of the requirements of traditional restaurants in Beijing are unique and not entirely the same as those in other places.

In Beijing's time-honored restaurants, waiters aren't called waiters; they're called waiters, waiters, or waiters who walk around.

Why is it called that?
It's because they don't stand in front of the stove all day working like cooks; they're always running around the shop.

Similar to crosstalk performers, they mainly learn four characters.

However, it's not about "speaking, learning, teasing, and singing," but rather "diligence and tranquility."

Be diligent; be diligent with your hands, mouth, legs, and eyes.

When speaking, one should be kind and gentle, and avoid being harsh in speech.

"Clear" means having a clear mind, being able to handle things flexibly, and speaking clearly when dealing with problems.

Cleanliness is essential; hands and feet must be clean and nimble, and language must be clean and tidy. One should not speak carelessly or in a loud or rude manner.

Therefore, the phrase "loud and clear" actually refers to the requirements for the front-of-house waiters, who need to speak loudly and clearly and accurately when announcing the names of the dishes during mealtimes.

A qualified waiter doesn't even need paper and pen; he can recite the dishes aloud from memory and quickly calculate the bill, creating a lively atmosphere by responding to the kitchen staff through tacit "rapid-fire recitations."

As for "bright stove," it has two meanings.

First, the stove and tableware are clean and bright, reflecting hygiene standards.

Secondly, the chefs are highly skilled and use the sound of tapping their spoons to signal the arrival of the food.

Diners can even observe cooking skills such as flipping the wok up close, showcasing the true abilities of those who cook "red dishes" or "white dishes".

To put it bluntly, "lively atmosphere" and "popularity" are the biggest pursuits of Beijing's catering industry.

The restaurant is always packed with customers, filled with laughter and lively chatter. The sounds of serving and cooking are clearly audible, and you can feel the vibrant atmosphere even through the windows without entering. This kind of restaurant, full of auditory and visual excitement, is exactly what Beijingers appreciate, and it can even enhance their appetite and enjoyment of food.

This is why people in Beijing often use the word "fire" to describe whether a restaurant or business is thriving.

A truly good place can be identified by the exterior of the establishment.

In fact, at this very moment, as Mi Xiaoran led her family onto the bluestone slabs in front of Hongxinglou, what greeted them was precisely this authentic and pure atmosphere of Beijing's everyday life.

Before we even got close to the main entrance, an elderly waiter in his fifties, wearing a dark blue stand-up collar short jacket with neatly ironed cuffs, proactively opened the heavy wooden door from the inside, stepped to the side, bent down, and greeted us with a beaming smile.

"Our restaurant has just reopened, and we are very grateful that you all came to support us. However, it is Sunday today, and it is currently peak dining time, so there are too many people eating here. We are really sorry, but the private rooms upstairs were fully booked a long time ago, and the seats on the ground floor are also tight. Right now, there are five groups of distinguished guests ahead of you, so I'm afraid you will have to wait a while..."

He spoke at a measured pace, with a steady breath and clear, distinct words. His attitude was extremely polite and humble, and he handled the situation with perfect tact. He was indeed much more enthusiastic in attracting customers than the state-run restaurants of the past.

However, the fact that they still had to wait made Mi Xiaoran pause in her tracks, and she immediately felt a desire to back out.

For no other reason than that there were five groups of customers ahead of her, which meant she would have to wait at least twenty or thirty minutes, and that would be considered lucky; in her opinion, it was a complete waste of time.

Moreover, the old shop in front of us was noisy and crowded. If we had to wait for a long time in such an environment, wouldn't that be incredibly uncomfortable?
To be honest, she was starting to regret her rashness. She already owned a restaurant; why was she just throwing money away to suffer?
So, instinctively, I wanted to say goodbye and go to Alan Restaurant in Guang'anmen for a meal.

However, before she could reply, the old waiter, with his sharp eyes, clearly saw through her thoughts. He casually offered a compliment, which, like a lassoer using a lasso, immediately made the Mi family feel too embarrassed to leave.

"Judging from your demeanor and attire, you are seasoned gourmets who know their food. These days, discerning diners exclusively choose Hongxinglou. Those fancy restaurants outside probably wouldn't catch your eye. If you're not in a hurry, why don't you come in and rest for a bit? I'll get you some chairs and keep an eye on things so you can move in as soon as a seat becomes available." These words precisely struck a chord with Chef Mi.

Master Mi, being of a certain age, naturally favored the dining etiquette of Beijing. Being hailed as a "knowledgeable old gourmet" made him overjoyed, his vanity firmly under control. He immediately struck up a conversation with a smile.

"You're too kind, sir. We just wanted to treat ourselves to something nice for the weekend and join in the fun. We didn't expect your place to be so popular now, with lines every day. I even came on opening day, and there weren't this many people."

"Oh, please come in, please come in. I didn't expect you to be a regular customer. To be honest, I don't deserve your praise, because it's all thanks to old neighbors and regular customers like you that our business is doing so well."

The old waiter then invited people into the shop, and his manners became increasingly courteous.

Master Mi was also pleased and immediately took a step forward. "No problem, no problem, we'll wait a bit. We're all here, so half an hour won't make a difference. Good food is worth the wait."

Mi Xiaoran followed her family inside, but she frowned inwardly, secretly blaming her father for being so easily manipulated, getting himself into an awkward situation with just a few polite words.

On the other hand, she secretly despised the old waiter in front of her, and felt disgusted from the bottom of her heart by this kind of shrewd, slick, and eloquent old-fashioned waiter.

In her mind, the service of high-end restaurants should be restrained, quiet, and elegant.

Just like the restaurants she invested in, all of them had young hostesses with uniform makeup, uniform uniforms, and upright figures. They smiled and gestured, and guided customers in a soft voice. They were quiet, proper, aloof and sophisticated. This is the demeanor that modern service industry should have.

In contrast, the old waiter in front of me was dressed in an old-fashioned short jacket, and his mouth was full of the polite words of a seasoned old hand. He had no sense of sophistication whatsoever, only a lot of scheming and calculation, and was full of vulgarity from the streets.

Although she can't leave now and has to follow her father's wishes, this is the only time; she will definitely not come back a second time.

That wasn't all; once she stepped inside, Mi Xiaoran felt even more irritated.

For no other reason than the constant buzzing of voices throughout the hall, the sounds of diners talking and laughing, clinking glasses, and clattering bowls and chopsticks rising and falling.

Every now and then, the loud calls of waiters announcing dishes and seeing off guests could be heard through the crowd, while the faint sounds of clattering pots and pans and the crackling of flames could be heard from the kitchen, creating a lively and bustling scene.

For Mi Xiaoran, this kind of environment was something she inherently loathed.

Her aesthetic sense is completely Westernized. She now believes that top-tier restaurants should be quiet and elegant, with soft lighting, low-key conversations, and silent service. Quietness is the foundation of sophistication.

She had always been afraid of the loud hawking and shouting in the alleyways since she was a child, always feeling that the loud noise was rustic, vulgar, and uncouth.

Now, standing in this noisy and bustling environment, I feel my eardrums throbbing and my mind is agitated, making me even more convinced that this is the standard setup for a low-end street restaurant.

However, her family members felt the opposite.

Master Mi and his wife looked around with joy and warmth in their eyes, feeling that this bustling atmosphere, filled with the sounds of people and pots and pans, was the true spirit of a proper restaurant.

Among the seated diners were several familiar faces from the neighborhood, waving and exchanging casual greetings from a distance of about half a table, exuding a warm and friendly atmosphere.

They all thoroughly enjoyed the lively atmosphere. Aunt Mi even remarked, "Look at this place, it truly lives up to its reputation as an established brand. No wonder it's one of the eight great restaurants. Only a traditional Beijing establishment like ours can be this bustling."

Master Mi nodded in agreement, "You're right, but the guy at the door really knows how to talk; he can get to the heart of the customer with just a few words. For that reason alone, who wouldn't want to come?"

What's most unbelievable is that Mi Xiaohui, this young girl, actually liked it here too. She looked around with a grin, asking detailed questions, "Dad, Mom, the food here smells so good! You always say this is the Eight Great Buildings, it really is something special. Hey, what are the other seven buildings, where are they, and what good food do they have here?"

Master Mi was honest and readily admitted his shortcomings.

"You're asking me? All I know are Zhengyanglou, Xinfenglou, Taifenglou, and this Hongxinglou. I can't name any others."

Aunt Mi was even more blunt, saying, "You silly girl, don't you think about it? Your dad's the kind of person who eats at restaurants. The Mi family has never been rich. He didn't earn much from his job, not even enough to buy cornmeal to support the family. At most, he knows how much a bowl of braised pork offal costs at Xiaochang Chen, how much fried dough pieces and cat's ear noodles cost at Langfang Yitiao, and how much steamed buns and fried liver cost at Tianxingju. If you want to know about the big restaurants, you have to ask your Uncle Kang. He's the real connoisseur of food."

One sentence made both the father and daughter laugh.

However, the more simple and unpretentious their jokes and laughter were, the more irritated Mi Xiaoran felt. She thought her family members had no ambition and shallow aesthetic sense, making them easily fooled by superficial charm.

However, on the other hand, despite Mi Xiaoran's strong resistance, the waiting service that followed far exceeded her expectations, which made her secretly moved.

It turns out that the old waiter had deftly torn off the number tags at the counter, neatly marked the number of people waiting, and handed them to Master Mi.

He then turned around and brought over a few foldable stools from behind, placed them against the wall in the shop, and asked the family to sit down and wait like the other customers.

Then, a pot of brewed tea was brought over, and warm jasmine tea was poured into disposable paper cups and handed to everyone.

At the same time, he brought over a small lacquered square plate, on which were arranged crispy original flavor shrimp chips and sweet and sour hawthorn slices, all of which were free snacks, clean, exquisite and plentiful.

It should be made clear that this is not just Mi Xiaoran's family; all the guests waiting in line receive the same treatment.

With no one rushing or neglecting them, people drank tea, ate snacks, and chatted, turning what should have been an agonizing and tedious waiting process into a relaxed and comfortable one.

He sincerely praised the tea served to a customer waiting for his number.

"This tea is really good, and Hongxinglou is really generous! Among so many restaurants in the capital, this is the first one to offer tea and snacks while you wait in line. The owner really understands people and knows how to do business. This service is a pioneering move!"

"Look at this cup, it exudes high-end hygiene, almost like the ones used by gingerbread men. The boss really knows how to spend money."

The other diners waiting for seats around them nodded in agreement and praised the food.

Hearing the praise from others, Mi Xiaoran felt a pang of jealousy.

She instinctively wanted to complain about how people love to take advantage of others, and how they are too easily fooled by a few cheap shrimp chips and hawthorn slices.

But she couldn't deny that this meticulous, thoughtful, and relaxed waiting service was indeed more considerate and humane than any of her restaurants.

Her store never thought of providing tea and snacks to customers. If they could provide a chair, they would be lucky. Most of the time, customers were left to stand and wait for a table. It was far less courteous and efficient than Hongxinglou.

At that moment, she reluctantly admitted to herself that Ning Weimin had indeed put real thought into the details of service, and his ability to manipulate people was superior to hers. (End of Chapter)