hollywood billionaire

Chapter 524 The Other Two People's Per Se
What lies before Han Yi and McGrady is the prelude, or rather the prelude, to tonight's nine-course dinner—Amuse-Bouche.

Undoubtedly, this word also originates from French and means "mouth pleaser," or an appetizer. These are small snacks served with aperitifs before a meal, designed to stimulate the taste buds and whet the appetite, preparing the palate for the main course.

Traditionally, in France and other Mediterranean countries, the savory snacks paired with aperitifs such as champagne, sherry, and vermouth are mostly small items like olives, nuts, and biscuits that don't require a chef's effort to prepare and can be bought directly from convenience stores or supermarkets.

However, in the 1970s, a new culinary movement emerged in France, and its leaders, such as renowned chefs Paul Bocuse and Alain Chapel, began to pay more attention to the overall dining experience and rhythm. Against this backdrop, chefs began experimenting with offering small, delicate, and flavorful "surprises" before the meal to set the tone for the entire dining experience—this was the precursor to the modern Amuse-Bouche.

By the late 1980s and 1990s, Alain Ducasse, a culinary master who had earned a total of 21 Michelin stars in his career, systematically adopted this concept in his restaurants around the world, making it an integral part of the fine dining experience. Since then, Amuse-Bouche has been widely accepted and has become a standard feature of fine dining restaurants and tasting menus worldwide.

Amuse-Bouche can be described as a wonderful first conversation between the restaurant and its diners. Through several appetizers that achieve a balance of flavors and rich layers with exquisite techniques and ingenious creativity, the chef can most directly demonstrate his culinary philosophy to the guests who have just sat down and give a preview of the feast that is about to begin.

Yes, "trailer," not "main course," is the most accurate description of Amuse-Bouche. It's not on the menu, nor is it an actual component of a five-, seven-, or nine-course dinner. It serves as a transition, a bridge between the main courses and the main courses. Diners have just entered the restaurant from the bustling outside world, their taste buds still tingled with the flavors of coffee, cigarettes, or other lingering notes. This carefully crafted appetizer, with its crisp and clean flavors, resets their palate, preparing them for the more delicate dishes that follow—its primary function is to connect the two.

The transition is a delicate art; it cannot be too bland and forgotten, nor too intense and overwhelm the following dishes. Therefore, an amuse-bouche usually contains the core ingredients or flavor elements that will appear in the main course, but presented in a more direct and concentrated form.

If the chef specializes in molecular gastronomy, Amuse-Bouche might utilize techniques such as foaming, spheroidizing, or sous-vide cooking. For example, one of the signature appetizers at Noma, the three-Michelin-starred restaurant where Alex and Harold once worked, is a radish buried in edible "soil." Another classic appetizer is a smoked quail egg cooked using sous-vide techniques, resulting in a solidified shell but a liquid yolk.

You don't even need to actually eat it; just scoop up the "soil" and take a look at the "pebbles" hidden inside, and the diners will have a general idea of ​​how unique this dinner will be.

If a restaurant emphasizes traditional flavors and local ingredients, then the appetizers will highlight local and seasonal flavors, thus foreshadowing the culinary direction and ingredient quality of the main meal. Per Se, managed by Thomas Keller and which prides itself on being a successor to authentic modern French cuisine and the new culinary movement, belongs to this category of restaurants.

"To the right of the two is a savory gougère made with Comté cheese and baked. The name Gougère comes from the Old French word 'gogue,' meaning hospitality or joy, vividly depicting the scene where it was often shared at parties and celebrations. For centuries, it has been an indispensable traditional delicacy at cellar tastings and family gatherings in the Burgundy region, and it tastes wonderful when enjoyed with Pinot Noir Champagne."

"To your left is Chef Keller's original dessert, the salmon cone. Since you've already dined at The French Laundry, you're probably familiar with this dish. We've presented it to you on a special stand, mimicking the miniature shape of an ice cream cone, creating a visually surprising and fun experience. The cone's outer shell is made of black sesame biscuits, which are incredibly crispy and have a rich nutty aroma. The filling is salmon tartare, made with the highest quality Atlantic salmon, finely diced and lightly seasoned. The freshness of the seafood, the caramelized biscuit, and the touch of vanilla on top create a cool, savory flavor that will instantly transport you to the Brittany coastline."

"Both desserts require you to pick them up with your hands and take a bite to experience the burst of flavors and textures in your mouth at the same time. Our suggestion is to eat the salmon cone first, then the Gougère, accompanied by an aperitif... Enjoy!"

"This salmon ice cream cone... is truly amazing."

Following Sandra's advice, McGrady carefully picked up the salmon ice cream cone wrapped in a napkin and popped it into his mouth.

The next second, her eyes widened slightly, and she let out a sigh.

The cool, fresh aftertaste seemed to truly carry the salty taste of the sea breeze, instantly sweeping over her senses and involuntarily bringing to mind Sandra's description of the "Brittany coastline"—not a specific scene, but a synesthetic feeling of coolness, purity, and openness.

Legend has it that tartare, a dish made with onions, capers, parsley, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce, served with raw meat, was brought to Europe by Mongol cavalry. It is actually a classic French dish that only became popular in Paris in the late 19th century. The edible container, the ice cream cone, was invented at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair. At the time, ice cream vendors had run out of paper cups. To continue attracting visitors, a Syrian vendor named Ernest Hamwi suggested rolling up waffles to use as ice cream containers. From then on, ice cream cones and ice cream cones became an indispensable part of American cuisine.

Combining these two elements perfectly embodies Thomas Keller's dual identity as an American and a French chef, aligning seamlessly with Per Se's positioning of innovative American cuisine combined with New Wave French culinary style. This appetizer is very restrained in its seasoning, lacking the heavy flavors of Parisian tarts that rely on piling on seasonings. Instead, it maximizes the preservation of the seafood's freshness while using a touch of salt, pepper, and herbs to enhance the overall richness of the flavor.

This restrained and subtle seasoning technique is similar to the culinary style of Brittany in northwestern France, and is also more popular with Americans.

"It's very crispy and smooth, like cream, and not too greasy. Best of all, it has absolutely no fishy smell."

Madison, having popped the last ice cream cone into her mouth, offered a comment that perfectly encapsulated the palates of the new generation of Americans—a fervent love for sweetness, a love that transcends even knowing the high sugar and calorie content, making them inseparable from brownies, various cookies, and ranch sauce. Like their parents, they are obsessed with creamy textures; butter, cheese, sour cream, avocado—anything that provides a "creamy" feel is considered delicious.

However, at the same time, influenced by the trend of green and healthy eating, they have abandoned the pursuit of salty and savory flavors by their American ancestors. Bacon, hamburgers, fried chicken, and pizza are considered unhealthy and low-class because of their excessive saltiness. Therefore, American diners entering Michelin-starred restaurants, such as Madison, demand that while the "texture" be strong, the "flavor" be as mild as possible.

In addition, deep-fried, piping hot food is synonymous with high calories, so what's the best way to reduce calories? That is to serve the same amount of food as a cold dish.

Thomas Keller astutely captured this complex mindset, which appeared very distressing to outsiders, and effectively met the needs of the person in question.

No wonder Madison, who has a strong American taste when it comes to food, is so fond of this salmon ice cream cone.

"The cream puffs are also good, very rich."

The salmon ice cream cone was quite tasty, something Han Yi had experienced at The French Laundry in Napa Valley. Although it was a little too mild for him, the refreshing and cool texture of this appetizer was a good choice to cleanse his palate.

He was more interested in the Gougère cheese puffs, a traditional snack he hadn't tried at The French Laundry last time.

Picking up the small, golden-brown ball with an uneven surface covered in grooves of varying shades and still emitting white steam, which looked like it had been baked on the spot, Han Yi felt the hardness and crispness of the surface and put it in his mouth, gently closing his teeth.

A cracking sound, deeper yet equally clear than when Madison chewed his salmon ice cream cone, rang out, followed by a burst of warm, savory steam with a strong cheesy aroma, creating a completely opposite experience to the coolness of the salmon ice cream cone.

Han Yi is a very traditional Eastern-style cheese lover. By "Eastern-style cheese lover," I mean he enjoys the rich, silky texture of melted cheese and its savory-sweet flavor, but he's averse to blue cheese, that moldy, outlandish concoction. Comté cheese, from the Franche-Comté region in the Vosges Mountains of northeastern France, perfectly meets his requirements. The Franche-Comté region borders Switzerland, and that alone gives a sense of the cheese's flavor—it must be perfect for Swiss cheese fondue, with its mild, slightly sweet taste. And the actual experience confirmed this. After baking, the cheese's savory flavor, along with its unique complex aroma of nuts, cream, and even a hint of caramel, is amplified, instantly filling the entire mouth. Unlike the overpowering, pungent blue cheese, it unfolds in a rich, rounded, and incredibly satisfying way.

It lacks the subtle, layered flavors of a salmon ice cream cone that require careful appreciation; instead, it offers a direct, straightforward, and comforting deliciousness. In terms of culinary culture, France and China share many similarities, including their shared preference for baked goods and pastries.

While not exactly a stunning delicacy, it serves as a perfect appetizer, showcasing the solid French culinary skills of the Per Se team. This cautious and restrained approach—striving for perfection within traditional frameworks and only making minor innovations without compromising flavor—is what makes Per Se hailed as North America's premier French restaurant.

“It’s a classic.” Han Yi smiled and nodded at Sandra. “And I like classics.”

"I am very pleased to hear such praise from you."

Sandra Poulsen crossed her arms in front of her and smiled.

“Yes, the aroma is just right.” McGrady nodded in agreement. “Rich, but not too salty… Oh, I think I’ll just have one. After all, there are still nine courses to go, so I need to leave myself some room.”

“No problem,” Sandra nodded in response. “Are we all finished?”

"Yep."

The diners gave the signal, and Sandra's two assistant waiters acted quickly. They stood beside Han Yi and McGrady, glanced at each other, and then removed the plates at the same time.

In upscale French restaurants, Service Synchronisé is not merely a formalistic performance, but a crucial and meticulously refined service principle.

French dining philosophy has three fundamental principles that must be strictly adhered to. First, *Respect et galité* (Respect and equality). All guests should be treated equally; one guest should not be left with an empty plate while another is still eating, thus avoiding any feeling of being rushed or neglected. Second, *Rythme et Ambiance* (Rhythm and Ambiance). Simultaneous, swift, and quiet plate clearing ensures that conversations are not interrupted, allowing everyone's attention to remain focused on each other and the food, rather than the service itself. Third, *Professionnalisme et Coordination* (Professionalism and Coordination). A service system as precise as Swiss watchmaking is an essential and delightful component of the captivating performance of a nine-course dinner.

Excellent actors can greatly enhance a great script.

"Now, we will present you with the first formal dish of the day. In the classic French dining etiquette, there are five essential parts: potage, entrée, plait rti, entremets, and desservir. What you are seeing now is the first part, potage, which is a thick soup."

“At Per Se, we change the menu according to the season, availability, and ingredients, but the soup has never changed. This is because our soup is perhaps Mr. Thomas Keller’s proudest invention – oysters and pearls.”

"As the name suggests, the main components of this creamy soup are oysters and caviar that looks like 'pearls.' For the oysters, we use Island Creek oysters from Maine. These oysters are plump, smooth, and have a fresh seawater flavor and a unique sweetness. We use a sous-vide cooking technique to preserve their tender texture and pure ocean flavor to the greatest extent. For the pearls, we use precious white sturgeon caviar, which brings an explosive salty and savory taste and a luxurious texture. Of course, if such a large amount of caviar were all caviar, the taste would be a bit too salty, so we added a little sago pearls, which not only makes the flavor lighter but also adds a chewy texture to the dish."

"Coating these two main ingredients is the Sabayon sauce, which gives the dish its soul. It is made by whipping a broth made from egg yolks, sweet wine, and shellfish. It has a rich and mellow flavor, but it is not too heavy and will not burden your taste buds."

"Our suggestion is to alternate between a spoonful of caviar and a spoonful of oysters, and each spoonful should be mixed with the sauce before eating... Please enjoy."

As soon as Sandra finished speaking, the hand sitting next to Han Yi picked up the soup spoon that the waiter had replaced, scooped out a small piece of caviar, let it soak up the sauce, and then ate it all at once.

“Mmm…”

After a satisfied sigh came a hearty laugh.

"As good as always, Ms. Paulsen, as good as always."

“I’m glad you like it, Mr. Barnett.”

Hearing Sandra Poulsen's words, Han Yi, who was somewhat dazed from being lost in memories, came back to his senses and turned his gaze to the other side of the dining table.

The person sitting there at the dinner table has transformed from that charming young starlet into a well-dressed, receding-hairline celebrity entrepreneur.

Today is January 2016, 12.

This is the second dinner hosted by the Per Se team in this apartment.

The diners at the dinner were Han Yi, the owner of the apartment.

And the builder of this apartment and the building it stands in, Gary Barnett, founder of Extell Development.

(End of this chapter)