From selling box lunches to becoming a famous Chinese chef

In recent years, Luan Bosheng has been working hard to restore the 44 seats in Boshan in accordance with Feng Zhengming's original suggestions.

He looked through a lot of old materials and spent a long time searching in the archives.

We also specifically found some elderly people and found some clues about Sisixi from some scattered records in their homes.

Now Luan Bosheng has basically restored the general structure of the Boshan Four-Four Seats.

Start with four dried fruits, four snacks, and four fresh fruits.

Then there are four flat plates, four large pieces, four rows of pieces, and four buckled bowls.

The whole set of four banquets really has the flavor of the legendary Manchu-Han banquet.

The four dried fruits, four snacks and four fresh fruits mentioned above can be considered as something before the meal.

In Siping, the dish looks like four cold dishes, but it actually has some characteristics of Boshan.

Through his own research, Luan Bosheng gave the following four levels:

Songhua is mixed with shredded chicken jelly, curly meat is mixed with cherry meat, bergamot meat is mixed with shredded radish, and tripe is mixed with stir-fried pig's trotter tendons.

It can be said that although it looks like four dishes, in fact, when put together, it is more like eight dishes.

And putting the two together forms a new dish, so there are really quite a few changes.

Four major items: three-fresh sea cucumber soup, pot-roasted pork elbow, Boshan tofu box, and sweet and sour carp.

Four types of dishes: stir-fried kidney, soft-fried pork liver, shrimp with chicken sauce, and glazed pork belly.

Among them, "liqiang" is a local name in Boshan, which is actually the name for the fat part of the pig's internal cavity.

The method of cooking Liuli is also a special method of Boshan cuisine.

It is a bit like the method of candied silk, but the difference is that for glazed silk, the syrup is boiled until it turns amber, then added to the fried inner cavity coated with flour, and quickly stir-fried in the pan to allow the glazed syrup to evenly coat the surface of the inner cavity.

This dish can be said to be an ultimate control of the heat.

Four kinds of bowls: soaked squid, braised tile fish, egg dumplings, and stewed vegetables.

Among them, fermenting the bottom of the vegetable is also a unique cooking method of Boshan cuisine.

It can be said that Luan Bosheng indeed conducted very detailed research and almost completely restored the 44 seats.

This meal opened the eyes of several chefs.

Master Cui couldn't help but sigh as he looked at the sumptuous dishes on the table.

"The Four Four Seat is worthy of being called the Little Manchu-Han Seat."

Master Su: "Luan Bosheng really put in a lot of effort to allow him to recover to this level."

Master Xia: "It really took a lot of effort. This whole banquet really shows the characteristics of Boshan cuisine. Moreover, such a banquet is incredible whether it was in the past or now."

Master Sun: "Old Xia, the Confucius Mansion dishes in your restaurant shouldn't be of such standard, right?"

Master Xia: "It's different. Confucius Mansion cuisine is more of a family banquet and will not be served in this form."

Master Yan: "The 44-style banquet is indeed closer to the Manchu-Han style, and is indeed different from Confucius Mansion cuisine, which does not have such a strict 44-style banquet."

Master Xia nodded: "Yes, Confucius cuisine does not have such strict rules for the four-four format."

Master Cui: "From this point of view, this table of 44 is indeed well prepared."

The old masters all agree on this point, and it is indeed very difficult to restore the 44 seats of the past.

I dare not say that the table of four-four seats prepared by Luan Bosheng is a complete restoration of the four-four seats in the past.

But the form is indeed very authentic, and the dishes he combined are also very unique.

In particular, Luan Bosheng incorporated some characteristics of Boshan cuisine into it.

In this regard, Luan Bosheng is really attentive.

Compare the restaurants in various parts of Qi and Lu that we passed along the way.

The old masters, Feng Zhengming's two grandfathers, and the other two groups of judges all had to admit it.

Luan Bosheng's 44-table banquet is indeed a bit beyond most restaurants.

Even in Quancheng, Luan Bosheng's No. 44 seat would definitely have a place.

As a result, all the judges almost unanimously recognized Luan Bosheng's Sisixi Restaurant, and Luan Bosheng's Boshan Sisixi Restaurant was also generally recognized as worthy of five stars.

Compared with Luan Bosheng, other restaurants in Zibo are indeed inferior.

But overall, the presence of Luan Bosheng's Sisixi Restaurant is indeed enough to elevate the entire Zibo catering industry.

While the masters were evaluating the restaurant, Feng Zhengming and his wife Luo Qing were eating barbecue with their children in Zibo.

The interesting thing about the small barbecue here in Zibo is that they will give customers their own small charcoal stove.

Then some small pancakes and green onions will be served.

After the skewers are served, they are placed on a small charcoal stove at each table to continue heating.

When eating, you can eat it directly with the skewer, or you can take the barbecue off, roll it in a small pancake, and add a few green onions to eat it like this.

Feng Zhengming and his wife were eating barbecue together, and Feng Zhengming would give some to his daughter from time to time.

The little girl found it very interesting and she liked it very much.

Luo Qing was worried that her daughter would not be healthy after eating it, so she tried to stop her husband.

"Don't give it to Youyou, she's so young."

Feng Zhengming smiled: "I didn't give her much to eat, just a few small pieces of meat, and there weren't too many condiments, so I gave her a street barbecue atmosphere."

Luo Qing turned her head to look at the people around the barbecue stall and felt that the atmosphere here was very good.

“I didn’t expect that people here like barbecue so much.”

Feng Zhengming: "This may be an obsession inherited from our ancestors and engraved in our genes. People are naturally more interested in this kind of charcoal-grilled meat.

In fact, if you think about it, stir-frying in Chinese cooking is also a process similar to grilling.”

Luo Qing thought for a moment and said, "I know. It's that Maillard reaction, right?"

Feng Zhengming smiled: "Yes, the stir-frying process also has a similar reaction process, so if some vegetables want to be delicious, they usually need to add animal fats."

Luo Qing: "That's true. Many dishes are more delicious when fried with lard."

Feng Zhengming: "So in essence, cooking is very simple. As long as you know how to add oil and adjust the flavor, you can make delicious dishes."

Luo Qing was a little surprised when she heard this: "Why do I feel like you have a new understanding?"

Feng Zhengming: "Indeed, there is a little bit. Do you remember Kofman's dish?"

Luo Qing: "Which dish?"

“It’s his most classic pig’s trotter.”

“Remember, that dish is indeed delicious.”

Feng Zhengming: "That dish is a perfect combination of seasoning and animal fat. Think about the internal organs wrapped in the pig's trotters, which are also roasted with animal fat. The butter mixed in is also animal fat."

Luo Qing: "Yes, and pig's trotters actually have fat as well."

Feng Zhengming: "So, I suddenly thought, maybe we can use some methods to make the dishes simple and delicious."

Luo Qing: "What method?"

Feng Zhengming: "Use the grease well."

“If you use the fat properly, it will taste good?”

Feng Zhengming: "Of course it's not just that. Oil is only one element of deliciousness. The taste also needs to be adjusted, especially the harmony of various flavors." Luo Qing: "So Master has always emphasized that the key to Shandong cuisine lies in this 'harmony'. Is that the reason?"

Feng Zhengming: "Yes, that's the principle. It's about the harmony of taste, and the harmony of various techniques to add flavor. Finally, the characteristics of cuisines from all over the world should be harmonized."

Luo Qing found her husband's theory somewhat difficult to understand.

After all, when it comes to cooking, Luo Qing is not that good at it.

Feng Zhengming also realized that his wife didn't quite understand, so he simply gave an example.

"To put it simply, for example, when making dry-fried fish, do you need to add some diced meat? Stir-fry the diced meat first to release the fat, and then use the fat from the diced meat to fry the fish. Doesn't that allow the fat and the fish to blend together?

Then we add water, other ingredients, and seasoning. But if we replace the water with clear soup, can the taste be improved?

The most important thing is water, because water can blend all the flavors together.”

The example given by Feng Zhengming helped Luo Qing quickly understand the meaning of "harmony".

One flavor that brings all the flavors together is harmony.

The techniques of frying, roasting and finally drying the fish are also integrated into one.

It is also a kind of combination of fish, diced meat and various auxiliary ingredients.

Thinking of this, Luo Qing couldn't help but sigh.

"You're right. Cooking really reflects the word 'harmony' in every aspect."

Feng Zhengming smiled: "Cooking is like life. Sweet, sour, bitter, spicy and salty are all part of life. Real life is a blend of these, so good dishes also need to blend these."

Luo Qing finally understood, and the look in her eyes when she looked at her husband was full of admiration.

Feng Zhengming not only cooks very well, but also inherits the techniques and concepts of his predecessors in Shandong cuisine, and further elevates them on the basis of inheritance.

He already has his own set of theories, understanding the philosophy of life from cooking.

Even Feng Zhengming's understanding is more profound than many old masters.

Luo Qing couldn't help but sigh in her heart that her husband always showed a depth beyond his age.

Feng Zhengming teased his daughter, tore off a little bit of minced meat and fed it to her.

The little girl was very happy eating, and even held her father's big hand with her little hands to ask for food.

Of course, Feng Zhengming did not continue to give his daughter more food.

Luo Qing felt very happy to see her husband taking care of their daughter.

The family of three had a small barbecue and strolled back to the hotel in the night.

The judges had all returned, and Feng Zhengming saw that his two grandfathers and his master were obviously waiting for him in the hotel.

He asked Luo Qing to take her daughter upstairs first while he went to meet the judges.

We all went to a small meeting room in the hotel.

The three groups of judges first handed the scoring forms to Feng Zhengming.

Feng Zhengming carefully looked at the ratings of various restaurants in Zibo on the table.

I saw that all three groups of judges gave high scores to Luan Bosheng’s Sisixi Restaurant.

Feng Zhengming smiled and asked, "Everyone speaks highly of the 44xi Restaurant. It seems that 44xi has left a deep impression on everyone?"

Master Cui: "Yes, Xiao Luan's 44 seats are indeed well made."

Master Xia: "It already has the taste of the authentic official cuisine of the past."

Feng Zhengming: "Master Xia gave a very high evaluation."

Then several veteran chefs, including the master, shared their experiences. They all felt that Luan Bosheng’s 44 Seat was indeed very well made.

It was my grandfather who spoke up and pointed out some of the shortcomings.

“Si Si Xi is indeed very distinctive, but I think the dishes still need to be improved. It shouldn’t just be limited to a few dishes. There should be more choices.”

Grandpa Situ has the same view: "We can't keep it the same. More changes will be more popular."

The two grandfathers and Feng Zhengming saw more when they were outside.

Especially in recent years, when I went to Shanghai with Feng Zhengming, I witnessed too many more fashionable restaurants and hotels.

Traditions must be upheld, but not too conservative.

We must keep pace with the times, introduce new things, and innovate on the basis of tradition.

It's like a four-four banquet, the format remains unchanged, but there are many dishes to choose from.

Different arrangements and combinations can be made to make the feast more sumptuous and present more variety.

Grandpa added: "Of course, you don't need to add too many tricks at the beginning, just do the details well, and more dishes can be added slowly later."

After listening to his grandfather's words, Feng Zhengming smiled and expressed his support for his grandfather's suggestion.

"My grandfather is really getting better and better. The suggestions he made are really good. I will tell Senior Brother Luan later and ask him to pay attention to enriching and adjusting the dishes in the future."

Grandpa laughed: "You are making fun of me, right? Don't you understand my suggestions?"

Feng Zhengming: "Sir, I didn't go there either. I really can't give you specific suggestions like you do."

Grandpa: "Just stay here and play with grandpa."

This made all the masters present laugh.

Master Yan: "It would be great if the child is willing to coax you. I, his master, don't coax him that much."

Feng Zhengming quickly looked at his master: "Master, tell me, how do you want me to comfort you?"

This made the old masters even happier.

Grandpa said, "Good boy, I knew you were teasing me here."

Feng Zhengming smiled and said, "Don't be angry, I really think what you just said is very good."

Of course, grandpa wouldn’t be really angry. Everyone got together to judge, and in the end, the goal was to develop Shandong cuisine better.

After everyone had a good chat, Master Cui still seriously asked Feng Zhengming for his opinion.

"Zhengming, tell me your opinion, do you think this rating is okay?"

Feng Zhengming put away his smile and stared seriously at the review results in his hand.

"There is no problem with this rating. I believe in Master, Uncle Master, Uncle Master, and Grandpa, as well as everyone's judgment on the rating. I believe that the restaurants in Zibo will also be able to accept it."

After a brief pause, Feng Zhengming summarized his experience of the provincial review.

"This time, we traveled all over the province. Everyone worked very hard. We also experienced the characteristics of cooking in different places in different provinces. I really learned a lot from it, which made me have a deeper understanding of Shandong cuisine."

Feng Zhengming's words made everyone nod their heads, and they all agreed with his statement.

This trip across the province and tasting restaurants in various places really gave us a lot of insights.

Over the years, several master chefs have had many opportunities to go out and communicate, and have had a lot of exchanges with chefs from all over the country and even abroad.

On the contrary, there is less communication with chefs from all over the province.

This time, Feng Zhengming asked the master craftsmen to come out and judge, so that they could also appreciate the characteristics of different regions in the province.

Feng Zhengming: “Next, I will summarize the final review results as soon as possible after I return, publish our recommendation guide, and prepare different rating signs to send to restaurants in various places.

I hope this first recommendation guide can promote further development of restaurants in various parts of the province, so that Shandong cuisine can keep up with the times." (End of this chapter)