1984: Starting from a bankrupt Sichuan restaurant

Chapter 170 You Don't Understand, Xue'er Is Different (6.3k words, two chapters combined)

The scratching sound of Xiao Li's pen tip moving across the paper was particularly crisp.

Huang Chen and the guests at the next table had somewhat strange expressions on their faces.

He Zhiyuan elevated this small piece of dried tofu and bean curd to such a high level.

No wonder he's the deputy editor-in-chief of the magazine!

He Zhiyuan tasted another piece of seaweed knot, swallowed it, and said, "Compared to this, this seaweed knot seems quite ordinary."

He then tried the spicy braised vegetables and nodded slightly, saying, "The spicy red oil is quite well-made, but compared to that, I still prefer the original five-spice flavor. You can taste the aroma of the old braising liquid and the original flavor of the ingredients, which is quite unique."

Huang Chen smiled and said, "I think the spicy flavor is more refreshing. The spiciness of this dish is more fragrant and slightly numbing, with a particularly fragrant sesame. The lotus root and potatoes, in particular, are excellent when coated with chili oil and served with alcohol."

“Look, that’s just a matter of different tastes and preferences.” He Zhiyuan laughed as well: “Look at the amount of the two kinds of braised dishes left in that pot, the spicy flavor should be more popular.”

“You don’t argue at all.” Huang Chen looked at him. “Back in school, you almost got into a fight with Xiao Pang over whether or not to put chili peppers in a dish.”

“Back then I was young and narrow-minded. Once I made up my mind, I thought it was right and I had to argue with people to see who was right and who was wrong.” He Zhiyuan shook his head with a smile. “Over the years I have traveled to many places, eaten different kinds of food, and seen different customs and traditions. Naturally I have developed a sense of awe and empathy.”

"If you knew that people in Fujian and Guangdong steam or boil seafood, you would think that the fishy smell would be hard to get rid of and the food would be tasteless. But when they knew that we braise or stir-fry seafood, they would slap their thighs and scold us for wasting such a delicacy."

"That makes sense." Huang Chen nodded, then asked curiously, "So, seafood is just boiled in water with nothing added? Is that even edible?"

He Zhiyuan laughed and said, "It's not that we don't add anything. We still add scallions, ginger, and cooking wine. In their words, it's all about the freshness. But I'm not used to it. It's too bland. At least it should be served with a nice dipping sauce."

As he spoke, he picked up a piece of braised beef with his chopsticks, examined it carefully, and couldn't help but exclaim, "This beef shank is so beautifully braised, with a bright red color. After cutting it open, the tendons and membranes are like amber on top. The meat looks quite firm. The beef quality is good, and the cooking time is also well controlled. Unlike some braised beef, which looks very loose when cut open and tastes dry and tough."

“Grandma Zhang’s braised beef was a specialty of Jiaozhou back in the day,” Huang Chen said.

He Zhiyuan put the beef into his mouth, chewed it carefully, and his eyes gradually brightened. After swallowing, he said, "The beef has a firm texture, a rich braised flavor, and slightly chewy tendons. It's not dry or tough, and the more you chew, the more fragrant it becomes! The beef used should be yellow beef, so the beef flavor is more prominent and doesn't overpower other aromas."

"To be honest, this kind of braised beef is top-notch in Chengdu."

"This old braising liquid is amazing! Whether it's braised pig's head or beef, the flavor is so rich and mellow, it has a power that penetrates the soul!"

Putting down his chopsticks, He Zhiyuan's expression was filled with emotion. "The older generation's skills were indeed high. It's such a privilege that this pot of old braising liquid and the technique of braising meat have been passed down. We are so fortunate to be able to sit here and taste such delicious food."

Huang Chen and Xiao Li both nodded in agreement.

"Alright, Xiao Li, stop writing and start eating," He Zhiyuan said to Xiao Li, taking a pair of chopsticks from the chopstick holder and handing them to him. He then picked up his own chopsticks and shoveled a mouthful of rice into his mouth.

Li was flattered and took the chopsticks, stuffed the notebook back into his bag, clipped the pen to his breast pocket, and first picked up a piece of beef and put it in his mouth.

Mmm, delicious!

It has a rich, savory aroma, a satisfyingly meaty texture, and becomes more fragrant with each chew.

Then there are the braised vegetarian dishes, each with its own unique flavor, especially the braised tofu skin, which tastes even better than meat.

Zhou Yan's skill level is indeed high!
Even in Chengdu, this braised food is definitely top-notch. As long as it can build a reputation, the business will surely be good.

After lunch, Huang Chen went back to work, while He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li sat on the bench outside the door.

He Zhiyuan took a photo of Zhou Momo alone with his camera.

"Cheese!" Zhou Momo sat on a small stool, smiling and giving a peace sign to the camera.

"Okay, let's take another one while we're standing," He Zhiyuan said with a smile. To be on the safe side, he took two photos this time to avoid the situation where the photos were blurry and couldn't be developed.

Around one o'clock, the workers finished their lunch and went back for a break before getting ready to go back to work, and the kitchen staff also stopped working.

Zhou Yan took off her apron and came out of the kitchen. She put a packaged pig's trotter in the basket of her bicycle, pushed it on, and went out. She looked at He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li sitting under the tree and said, "Editor-in-Chief He, I'm sorry to have kept you waiting. Let's go to Zhoucun."

"Let's sit down and digest our food, shall we go?" He Zhiyuan said with a smile, handing the camera to Xiao Li and slinging his bicycle over his shoulder.

"Goodbye, Uncle and Brother!" Zhou Momo stood at the door and waved her little hand at them.

"Goodbye, little Momo," He Zhiyuan said with a smile and a wave.

On the way to Zhoucun, He Zhiyuan rode side by side with Zhou Yan and praised, "Your braised vegetables and braised beef taste so good, especially the braised tofu and braised dried bean curd sticks. You used Xiba tofu, right?"

"Editor-in-Chief He has a really sharp tongue. How could he tell that from the taste?" Zhou Yan turned his head to look at him in surprise. He had never told the guests about the origin of the dried tofu and bean curd sticks, yet He Zhiyuan had managed to figure it out.

“I once hosted a Xiba tofu banquet and had a deep impression of the dried tofu and bean curd sticks there,” He Zhiyuan explained. “However, back then we found a locally recognized tofu master, but today I tasted your dried tofu and bean curd sticks and they are in no way inferior to that master’s. Could it be that you got your goods from Xiba?”

Xiba Town is also a township under the jurisdiction of Jiaozhou, and it is dozens of kilometers away from Suji.

It's not exactly far, but it's not exactly close either.

Zhou Yan's dried tofu only sells for six cents a pound, why would he need to travel all the way to Xiba to buy it?

Although dried tofu is easier to transport than tofu, it is still difficult to store for a long time.

The uniqueness of Xiba tofu lies not only in the use of local small-grained soybeans and some differences in processing techniques, but also in its close connection to the local cold-water wells.

There's a saying that the tofu masters of Xiba can't make good Xiba tofu once they leave Xiba.

“My great-aunt married from Xiba to Suji. Her family’s tofu-making skills have been passed down from generation to generation. They’ve been using her tofu and dried bean curd sticks.” Zhou Yan said with a smile, “Her skills are so good that she deserves the title of tofu master even in Xiba.”

"To be able to make tofu of this quality in Suzhou, the title of 'master' is truly well-deserved!" He Zhiyuan nodded, with a touch of emotion, and said, "It seems that your family can be considered a family of gourmets."

Zhou Yan smiled upon hearing this. To be precise, they should be considered a family of cattle butchers.

The Zhou family had been butchering cattle for generations, but he took a different path.

The old lady's braised dishes were indeed excellent, but if she hadn't shown her talent, there would probably have been no successor.

Comrade Zhao Tieying, who was once highly regarded by the old lady, was beaten out of the kitchen by the old lady with a bamboo stick.

On the way, Zhou Yan told He Zhiyuan about the old lady's basic situation, including when she started selling braised meat at the Suji Bridge and how she raised her five children with a pot of braised meat.

He spoke rather briefly, mainly mentioning a few key dates so that He Zhiyuan could ask targeted questions.

Based on Zhou Yan's observation of the old lady, her memory of many things may have become blurred, but she might be able to remember some things if the time frame is mentioned.

He Zhiyuan nodded from time to time, while Xiao Li, sitting in the back seat, craned his neck to listen attentively, afraid of missing a single word.

If the local editor asks him about it later and he can't answer, then things will get really bad!
"Slow down, this village road is a bit bumpy," Zhou Yan reminded him.

"This is considered good. You haven't seen a truly bumpy road. You wouldn't want to ride it anymore after that," He Zhiyuan laughed. "I heard your village has a nickname, 'Zhou Village, the Village of Slaughtering Cattle.' Does every household slaughter cattle?"

Isn't this a notorious and fearsome reputation? Even cultured people know how to talk. Zhou Yan replied with a smile, "Not every household slaughters cattle, but in terms of scale, it's certainly among the top in Jiaozhou."

There weren't many people on the road in the village at this time. Zhou Yan greeted them a few times and then stopped in front of the old house with He Zhiyuan. "This is it."

He Zhiyuan parked the car, and Zhou Yan walked first into the courtyard with the door slightly ajar, calling out, "Grandma!"

"Come in," came the old lady's voice from the main room.

He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li followed them inside. The yard was very clean, and there was a chicken coop in the corner. Judging from the noise, there must have been quite a few chickens, ducks, and geese.

Upon entering the main room, one can see two red plaques with gold lettering that read "Family of First-Class Heroes" hanging on the wall.

The expressions of the two immediately became more solemn.

Huang Chen told him about the Zhou family's two first-class meritorious officials. At the time, he only felt that the family had a strong sense of loyalty and integrity. But when he saw the two plaques, the overwhelming sense of pressure made him feel something different.

Her husband sacrificed his life on the battlefield of the Korean War, and her youngest son returned from the Sino-Vietnamese War with serious injuries. Both of them made outstanding contributions and are worthy of admiration.

As a wife and mother, the weight of these two titles is self-evident.

A slender old woman with a straight back came out of the kitchen carrying a thermos. She looked at the three of them with a smile and said, "You've come. Please sit down. Don't be shy. I'll make you some tea."

"You're too kind," He Zhiyuan said to the old lady, his face showing more admiration.

"One belongs to my grandfather, and the other to my uncle," Zhou Yan explained to the two of them.

"This is truly a family of meritorious officials, and they deserve the title," He Zhiyuan said sincerely.

“They all say it’s our duty to protect our country.” The old lady looked up at the two plaques and smiled. “It really is our duty, otherwise we wouldn’t have the good life we ​​have now.”

He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li sat down, and Zhou Yan put the pig's trotter on the table and came over to help serve tea, saying, "Grandma, I brought you a braised pig's trotter."

"Okay, then I don't have to cook dinner tonight." The old lady nodded with a smile, sat down on a chair, and looked at He Zhiyuan and Xiao Li, saying, "Are you reporters?"

"Hello, Mrs. Zhang. We are not reporters. I am He Zhiyuan, the deputy editor-in-chief of Sichuan Cuisine magazine, and this is my assistant, Xiao Li." He Zhiyuan introduced himself with a smile. "We are here today to interview you about your experience in running Zhang's Braised Food and its inheritance, and to do an interview about the story behind the inheritance of braised food."

The old lady smiled and said, "Zhou Yan said that everyone who appears in your magazine is a master. How could an old woman from the countryside like me, who makes braised dishes, be featured?" "We ate at Zhou Yan's restaurant for lunch today. We had braised vegetables, braised beef, and braised pig's head. The taste was amazing. It was the best braised food I've ever had." He Zhiyuan said earnestly, "Zhou Yan's skills were passed down from you. You certainly deserve the title of master of braised dishes."

"It seems Zhou Yan wasn't lying." The old lady nodded slightly. "Then just ask whatever you want to know, and I'll tell you if I remember."

"Okay." He Zhiyuan's face lit up with joy. The old lady had a very good personality and was very cooperative.

I've encountered some older folks before who were stubborn and impossible to reason with. If you got really angry, they'd even hit you with their canes.

It's just asking for a recipe, you don't have to answer it. Hitting someone is going too far.

Xiao Li quickly took out a notebook from his cloth bag, took out two fountain pens and placed them on the table, and also unscrewed the ink bottle from the bag and put it aside.

In his experience, older people who volunteer to be interviewed are very talkative, which is exhausting for both the interviewer and the pen.

Seeing that Xiao Li was ready, He Zhiyuan asked, "Grandma, when did you learn to make braised dishes, and from whom did you learn this skill?"

The old lady fell into deep thought, and after a while she spoke: "I learned the skill of making braised dishes from my mother. As far back as I can remember, our family has been making braised dishes. My mother and father would braise a pot of pig's head and a pot of vegetables every day and take them to the market to sell."

I am the eldest child in my family, with a younger brother and two younger sisters. I helped peel potatoes and lotus roots when I was little, and later I scraped pig hair and cleaned pig intestines.

My mother said that this skill was passed down to her by her father. My maternal grandfather used to be the head chef in the household of a high-ranking official in Chengdu. He was a well-known master of hot dishes in Chengdu at that time.

Later, when the world was in turmoil and survival was difficult, my maternal grandfather went against his family's wishes and taught my mother the secret recipe and method for making braised food. Our family survived thanks to this pot of braised food.

Later, my mother taught me her skills and secret recipes. When I was eighteen, I was introduced to Zhou Yi, and I married into Suji...

Zhou Yan sat quietly to the side, listening. The old lady's tone was quite relaxed, echoing the rustling of Xiao Li's pen.

The tabby cat lay on a chair nearby, snoring softly.

The old lady recounted some events from when she first arrived in Zhoucun, events that Zhou Yan had not previously seen in her fragmented memories.

“When I first married into this family, Old Man Zhou Yi divided the family property and gave us a mud-brick house. The walls were full of cracks and the roof was full of holes. Whenever it rained, it was raining heavily outside and drizzling inside. The wind could blow through the house. It was impossible to live there.”

But Zhou Yi was diligent. In his spare time after slaughtering cattle, he would repair the walls and roof. By the time winter was approaching, he had finally repaired the dilapidated house.

My family was still poor, and we barely made ends meet. We didn't even have a cotton-padded coat, so I thought of making braised dishes. I cleaned up the scraps like beef intestines and tripe, braised them in braising liquid, and everyone said they tasted great, so I just went for it.

They first sold it near the Qingyi River because it was affordable and tasted good, so it sold quite well.

After accumulating some capital, I started braising pig's heads, carrying them to the stone bridge in Suji every day to sell. Business got better and better, and the braised meat I sold went from ten catties to twenty catties, then a hundred catties. When I couldn't carry it anymore, I bought a donkey and got a donkey cart..."

The old lady spoke slowly and deliberately. When she talked about how her business was getting better and better, a smile appeared on her face. But when she mentioned that her husband had gone to Sichuan with the army, her brows furrowed involuntarily.

Zhou Yan had seen most of the story that followed in her memory.

Decades have passed, and some discrepancies have indeed occurred, but overall, the old lady's memory is still quite good, and she remembers many things clearly.

She omitted everything about the Jiaozhou Hotel coming to purchase goods, only saying that some Jiaozhou diners would come because of its reputation.

The old lady has a very high bottom line: she would never betray her partners.

He Zhiyuan would occasionally ask a few questions and discuss topics that interested him, but most of the time he would listen to the old lady talk.

This long-winded conversation lasted for two hours.

Xiao Li's hands were shaking when he put the pen cap back on and twisted the cap off the Hero brand ink bottle.

Another thirteen thousand.

My life is so hard.

He Zhiyuan's eyes reddened as he listened, deeply moved. He said, "Grandma, hearing about your passing down of this pot of braised food has brought tears to my eyes!"
This pot of braising liquid, passed down from your grandfather, has nourished three generations and become a culinary memory for generations of Suzhou residents. Now, it has been passed down to Zhou Yan and is becoming a new favorite on the palates of a new generation of Suzhou residents.

"Could I take a picture of you? If the article gets published in a magazine, it can be used as an illustration to accompany the text."

The old lady straightened her clothes and nodded, saying, "Okay, go ahead and take the picture."

"You can sit here." He Zhiyuan took out his camera and took two steps back.

The old lady, dressed in a simple blue diagonal-fronted cloth shirt, sat in the seat of honor in the main room, her expression calm and composed. Behind her hung two plaques inscribed with "Family of First-Class Heroes," and next to her was a photograph of Mr. Zhou.

When He Zhiyuan pressed the shutter, his eyes were filled with tears.

This is more than just a pot of braised food; it is the bond that tightly binds this large family together, and the bond is held in the old lady's hand.

Putting away his camera, He Zhiyuan looked at the old lady and said, "Grandma, when the photos are developed, I'll send them to Zhou Yan so he can give them to you. I'll also send you a copy of the magazine when it's published."

"Yes, thank you for your hard work." The old lady nodded and saw them out with a smile.

"Editor-in-Chief He, would you like my grandma to make a pot of braised dishes?" Zhou Yan asked on the way back.

“No need. The old lady said your braised meat and braised vegetables are just as good as hers. Why make the old lady work so hard?” He Zhiyuan shook his head with a smile, his face full of emotion. “Zhou Yan, you have such a keen eye for choosing people. This is definitely one of the best stories I’ve interviewed this year. It’s no less impressive than the Kong School of Heritage.”

With a foundation of patriotism and a spirit of self-reliance embodied in the Sichuan women of that era, this pot of braised food is not only a delicious memory for the people of Suji, but also a legacy of dedication.

"Editor-in-Chief He's summary is excellent." Zhou Yan praised repeatedly, noting that He Zhiyuan's ability to elevate the theme was far superior to his own.

That's good. The higher the theme, the easier it is to get published in a magazine.

Little Su Ji, yet people keep appearing in magazines, and they're all connected to him.

If the theme isn't lofty enough, it's hard to convince people.

He Zhiyuan looked at Zhou Yan and said, "Why don't you take me to see one of your great-aunts? I'm quite curious about how they make such authentic Xiba tofu in Suji. I'd like to do some interviews as a supplement."

Zhou Yan glanced at his watch, then shook his head helplessly: "Editor-in-Chief He, I'm sorry, I have to go back now to prepare for tonight's business. I'm planning to take my great-aunt to get her legs and eyes checked tomorrow afternoon, would you two like to come with me?"
Or tomorrow morning, you can go to the stone bridge to find my cousin. He sells tofu there every morning; his stall has a sign that says "Silent Tofu," so it's easy to find. If you're short on time, you can go directly to him, and I'll write you a note so he can take you to his home for the interview.”

He Zhiyuan nodded: "Okay, we're going back to Chengdu tomorrow afternoon. If you're not free, then we'll find it ourselves."

Zhou Yan stopped the car, took out an account book and a pen, wrote a few simple sentences, tore off a page, and handed it to He Zhiyuan.

Back in town, the two parted ways at the stone bridge. Zhou Yan went back to the hotel, while He Zhiyuan and the others rode towards the guesthouse.

"Editor-in-chief, are you confident that this article about the old lady will be published? After all, she's not exactly a professional chef," Xiao Li asked curiously.

He Zhiyuan asked with a smile, "Xiao Li, what defines a professional chef?"

After thinking about it seriously, Xiao Li said, "At least he must have worked in a restaurant kitchen for a few years, or be a certified chef."

"That's too narrow-minded," He Zhiyuan shook his head. "A professional chef is one who can make food that most diners find delicious. The standard for judging whether a chef is professional is to make most customers satisfied and happy with their meal."

"Grandma Zhang's braised food skills are top-notch among cold dish chefs. She learned from a Sichuan cuisine master in the late Qing Dynasty. The family's skills have been passed down to the fourth generation, and Zhou Yan still has such a high level. It is well-deserved to be called the number one braised food in Jiaozhou."

"If Zhou Yan were to bring his pot of old braising liquid to Chengdu now, which restaurant wouldn't be eager to take it?"

After listening, Xiao Li nodded repeatedly, "The editor-in-chief is right, I was narrow-minded."

When Zhou Yan rode his bike back to the hotel, he saw Huang Ying and Huang Bing playing with Zhou Momo at the hotel entrance.

"Brother!" Zhou Momo saw Zhou Yan and immediately ran over happily.

The two of them also stood up with smiles to greet them:

"Boss Zhou."

"Brother Yan."

"Why are you here so early tonight? It'll be a while before the door opens." Zhou Yan ruffled Zhou Momo's hair, glanced at his watch, and saw it was exactly 4:30.

"I came here specifically to get your autograph because I saw you were in a magazine." Huang Ying took out two magazines, handed them to Zhou Yan, and said with a smile, "Come on, Mr. Zhou, please sign this for me."

"I'm neither a writer nor a celebrity, what would a chef sign?" Zhou Yan said with a smile, looking at the two magazines.

"Your braised beef is on the cover of a magazine! And there's a two-page interview too. Yan-ge, you're too modest! You're definitely going to be a famous chef someday." Huang Bing smiled and handed over a magazine, his smile ingratiating: "Sign one for me too. Your handwriting is beautiful, so write me a sentence too, just say: 'Bao Gu Xue, I will definitely pass your test and become your most loyal warrior!'"

Zhou Yan: "Huh?"

Huang Ying: "Tsk! Huang Bing, you're disgusting. Don't tell anyone you're my brother when you go out, I feel so ashamed. That Bao Gu Xue was just playing you, all she did was ask for money and gifts, and you actually got hooked?"

"You don't understand, Xue'er is different." Huang Bing said nonchalantly, "Besides, what's wrong with fishing? If she's fishing for me every day, what's the difference between that and loving me?"

Zhou Yan took the Parker pen clipped to his pocket, quickly signed his name, and patted Huang Bing on the shoulder, saying, "Brother, don't listen to that woman's talk about testing you. Remember, in our country, only the Party and the people have the right to test you."

　No extra chapter today, but I'll add one tomorrow! Please vote with your monthly tickets!
　　
　
(End of this chapter)