1984: Starting from a bankrupt Sichuan restaurant

Chapter 174 is truly a perfect accompaniment to food! (6k words combined, please subscribe to the full chapter!)

Mapo tofu is undoubtedly one of the most famous dishes in Sichuan cuisine, renowned both at home and abroad.

On the menu of Sichuan restaurants, it is placed in a very prominent position, alongside twice-cooked pork.

Kung Pao Chicken was not commonly found in small restaurants. In those days, the problem of chicken leg supply could not be solved, so small restaurants simply could not make this dish.

Tofu is so common, it only costs two cents a pound, and you can find several vendors selling it in any market.

The map of Chinese cuisine unfolds, from south to north, with a wide variety of dishes to enjoy, prepared in countless ways.

Tofu holds a very important place in Sichuan cuisine. Sichuan people love to eat tofu and its different forms.

For example, there are the various schools of tofu pudding that are fiercely competing for in Jiaozhou, and the tofu pudding restaurants that are springing up everywhere.

Douhua is unique to Sichuan and Chongqing. It is between tofu pudding and soft tofu. It does not require complicated cooking. Served with a flavorful dipping sauce, it can become a restaurant's signature dish and even a way to attract customers, which shows how much people in Sichuan and Chongqing love it.

The tofu pudding in the cold pot fish is Zhou Yan's favorite.

The stew of crispy pork and other meat-based tofu puddings is also quite representative.

My thoughts return to Mapo Tofu, the origin of this famous dish. Zhou Yan collected information about it when he made a video reviewing Chen Mapo Tofu. Chen Mapo Tofu was founded in 1862, the first year of the Tongzhi reign of the Qing Dynasty, more than 120 years ago. It was located next to Wanfu Bridge in the north of Chengdu.

The owner, Chen Chunfu, was skilled at making tofu. Because his wife had many pockmarks on her face, she was called Chen Mapo. As Chen Mapo's reputation spread, the shop's name was changed from Chen Xingsheng Restaurant to Chen Mapo Tofu, and it remains so to this day.

As soon as the recipe is opened, knowledge immediately floods into the brain.

From the selection and cutting of tofu, to the stir-frying of beef sauce, and the techniques of thickening the sauce three times and the complex seasoning, everything is integrated seamlessly.

Zhou Yan closed his eyes and opened them again, and he already understood everything.

No wonder most chefs can't make Mapo Tofu well on their own. The method isn't complicated, but the techniques are quite sophisticated.

Old Zhou returned quickly and went into the kitchen to tell Zhou Yan, "Wei Guo said he has a meeting and won't be able to leave work until six o'clock. I told him to come over after work, and we'll have dinner after we close for business."

“Okay.” Zhou Yan nodded with a smile, walked out of the kitchen and said to Zhang Zhengping, who was drinking water, “Uncle, take a look at the menu. What dishes would you like to eat tonight? I’ll save them in case the guests order them all.”

Zhang Zhengping waved his hand with a smile: "Let the guests order first, we'll eat whatever's left. It doesn't matter if we're family."

The old lady put down her bowl and laughed, "You have no idea how popular this restaurant is. If you don't order anything, we'll have a table full of food tonight."

"Wow, that's amazing!" Zhang Zhengping looked surprised, put down his bowl and began to carefully examine the menu. "Then I'll order a plate of stir-fried pork liver and a plate of braised beef. You can decide on the rest."

I love stir-fried pork liver, but your aunt's cooking skills are terrible. She cuts it too thick, overcooks it, and it's all crumbly with a bitter aftertaste.

I haven't had my third sister's braised beef for years. I'll try yours today and see how it resembles hers.

Zhou Yan smiled and nodded, then looked at the old lady: "Grandma, why don't you order two dishes?"

The old lady thought for a moment and said, "Then I'll order a crucian carp with mint, a dish of braised vegetables with five spices, and plenty of dried bean curd. You can also make a Mapo tofu and stir-fry some cabbage. I think that should be enough."

“Okay.” Zhou Yan then said to Zhao Hong, “Sister-in-law, could you pick up Fanwa and Huihui after school? Let Fei Ge come over for dinner tonight, and we can have a little get-together.”

“Okay,” Zhao Hong replied with a smile.

Since his maternal uncle rarely came to visit, Zhou Yan naturally wanted to treat him well.

The fact that today's task was completed so smoothly is largely thanks to Dr. Zhang, the traditional Chinese medicine doctor.

Not only did it heal her legs and eyes, it also gave her a strong belief in life.

Old Zhou has too many family members, and tonight's event was too rushed to invite everyone.

He had just overheard Comrade Zhou and Aunt Zhao quietly discussing with a few of their brothers about when they could get together.

My great-uncle's visit was a catalyst, mainly because they had moved to town and were now settled. They hadn't yet invited their brothers over for a meal, so they decided to have a feast on Sunday when they had some free time.

"Uncle, what are all these needles for?" Zhou Momo approached Zhang Zhengping and asked curiously as he tidied up the cloth bag.

"These are silver needles, used to prick people," Zhang Zhengping said with a smile.

Upon hearing this, Zhou Momo quickly shrank into the old lady's arms, craning her neck and continuing to ask curiously, "Uncle, what about these jars?"

"We heat it up with fire and then put it on the person," Zhang Zhengping explained.

Zhou Momo lost her curiosity, pulled her head back, and whispered to the old lady, "Grandma, Uncle doesn't seem like a good person..."

The crowd burst into laughter.

"Zhou Momo, what are you saying!" Zhao Tieying laughed. "Your great-uncle is a retired doctor, a great man who saves lives."

"Ah! Doctor!" Zhou Momo's eyes lit up, no longer afraid, and she moved closer to Zhang Zhengping. "Uncle, are these needles used to snatch bad people? And are these jars used to burn bad people?"

While everyone chatted and played with the baby, Zhou Yan went back to the kitchen to start preparing the dishes.

At five o'clock, the textile factory's closing bell rang, and workers poured out on bicycles.

A long queue formed outside Zhou Erwa Restaurant, and the restaurant gradually filled up with people.

"There are quite a few people here," Zhang Zhengping remarked. He told the old lady what to do, then walked around by himself with his hands behind his back.

The old lady leaned back in the recliner by the door, watching Zhou Miao sell braised food and Zhou Momo greet customers with a smile on her face.

She is a carefree person, and she never interferes with the younger generation in her family unless there is an emergency.

No matter how busy the restaurant is, she won't help serve dishes or clear tables. If they're too busy, it means they need to hire someone, and they don't need her to fill in.

If they bump into each other and end up doing more harm than good, they'll avoid being accused of favoritism by the younger generation and can enjoy their peace and quiet.

Fanwa moved a stool and sat by the door to do her homework.

Zhou Lihui went into the kitchen to tend the fire for Zhou Yan.

"Uncle, my father bought me a new kitchen knife. Now I'm in charge of chopping all the vegetables and pig feed in our house. Nobody else is allowed to touch it." Zhou Lihui stuffed a piece of oak wood into the stove and said while working the bellows, with a hint of pride on his face.

"That's great," Zhou Yan said with a smile. The young man was still very enthusiastic about learning to cook, which was quite rare.

We usually have an endless supply of potatoes to cut, but we only start peeling and slicing them after closing time in the morning, so Huihui just missed it.

Although Zhou Lihui remained consistently third from the bottom, he was still in school, so Zhou Yan naturally couldn't let him drop out to cut potatoes.

However, Zhou Yan didn't teach him nothing. In the past two days, he taught him the techniques of straight knife technique and let him practice with a lotus-shaped white staff.

This can be considered as making the best use of the lotus white.

Huihui picked it up quickly and was quite energetic, as evidenced by the several new wounds on his hands.

Zhou Yan planned to have him practice his knife skills properly after he started his winter vacation, starting with slicing potato and lotus root.

A restaurant specializing in braised vegetables has to cut hundreds of kilograms of potatoes and lotus roots every day. This level of effort is something that other restaurants might not be able to achieve.

After closing for the evening, it was already dark outside.

Zhou Weiguo and Zhou Fei had been there for a while, and were chatting with Zhou Miao, who had some free time, sitting on a chair by the door.

A bicycle leisurely rode up and stopped in front of the restaurant.

"uncle."

"Uncle."

Zhou Weiguo and Zhou Fei quickly stood up to greet them.

"Uncle, where did you get this bicycle?" Zhou Miao asked with a surprised look.

Zhou Yan just came out of the kitchen and was somewhat surprised to see Zhang Zhengping sitting on the old bicycle.

"Weiguo, Afei." Zhang Zhengping greeted the two with a smile, got off his bicycle, and explained, "Ji Hongtao, the vice president of the textile factory's hospital, is a former student of mine. I just went to his place for a while, and he said he usually stays at the hospital and in the dormitory and doesn't need the bicycle, so he asked me to ride it for a few days and return it to him when I leave."

"At your age, can you still ride steadily?" the old lady asked with a smile.

Zhang Zhengping patted the bicycle seat with a confident look and said, "Third Sister, don't worry, I'm a very steady rider. I take Yu Rong around every day. You can ride in my bike when we go back tonight."

"Okay." The old lady nodded with a smile.

"Mom, let me take you home," Zhou Miao said quickly, a little worried.

"Why send anything? Wei Guo has a car too. We have too many cars. We don't need you to send us anything." The old lady curled her lip, unconvinced.

Upon hearing this, Zhou Yan's heart skipped a beat. The vice president of the factory-run hospital was actually his great-uncle's student, and it seemed that they had a good relationship.

In that case, he could consider using his great-uncle's connections to establish some ties with Vice Dean Ji Hongtao, or at least get to know him.

Small towns are societies built on personal connections.

The doctors at the textile factory's hospital were said to be better than those at the local clinic.

Everyone gets sick sometimes, and having connections at the hospital can come in handy, sometimes even saving lives.

Zhou Yan made a mental note of it. If he were to host a dinner party in a couple of days, he would try to find an excuse to invite the vice president as well, before his great-uncle went back.

Such people are generally not easy to get to know.

"There are no more guests, everyone please come in and sit down. I'll start cooking right away," Zhou Yan said, then turned and walked towards the kitchen.

There was a little more than one serving of braised pork ribs left over today, which was just enough to make a dish.

Old Zhou had already prepared the braised beef and braised vegetables in advance. Zhou Yan killed two crucian carp and marinated them first. He prepared the ingredients for the crucian carp with mint and the stir-fried pork liver, and started preparing the ingredients needed for Mapo Tofu.

Both fermented soybean paste and fermented black beans should be finely chopped so that their color and flavor can be fully released.

Authentic Mapo Tofu uses garlic sprouts, but not scallions or ginger. Finely chop the garlic sprout stalks diagonally and cut the leaves into small sections, then set aside.

Zhou Yan kept two ounces of beef brisket, chopped it into minced meat, heated oil in a wok, and stir-fried the minced beef over low heat until crispy, making beef sauce. He then set it aside.

Zhou Yanke is so skilled at stir-frying beef toppings, she has perfect control over the heat, and it's stir-fried until golden and crispy.

Heat two pots simultaneously. On one pot, fry the crucian carp, and on the other, boil half a pot of water with a spoonful of salt. Cut the tofu into small cubes about three centimeters in size and blanch them in the boiling water until thoroughly cooked. This removes the beany taste and gives the tofu a base flavor.

Remove the fried crucian carp from the pan, stir-fry the ingredients, add water, and simmer over low heat.

On the other side, the blanched tofu has been taken out. Pour rapeseed oil into the pot, add fermented soybean paste and fermented black beans over low heat, stir-fry until the oil turns red, then add chili powder and stir-fry until fragrant. Pour in a bowl of water, and a pot of bright red soup is ready.

At this point, add the previously blanched tofu and the previously stir-fried beef sauce. Cooking the beef sauce in the broth allows the aroma of the beef to infuse into the soup, which is then absorbed by the tofu.

Turn up the heat a little, and gently push the tofu with a spoon to prevent it from sticking to the pot or forming a paste.

Here's a very important tip: you should only push the tofu with the spoon, not scoop it up, otherwise it will easily break.

An unformed Mapo Tofu is considered a failure.

Add a little dark soy sauce to enhance the color and aroma.

On the left, a small fire is used to cook the fish; on the right, a large fire is used to cook the tofu.

This is what is commonly referred to as "big fire tofu and small fire fish".

Mapo tofu needs to be thickened three times. After reducing the sauce by half over high heat, sprinkle in the white parts of the green garlic and start thickening the sauce by adding a little water mixed with cornstarch. Gently stir the tofu with a spoon until the sauce begins to thicken.

Start thickening the sauce a second time. This time, add more cornstarch slurry. Gently push the tofu with the back of a spatula to coat it evenly with the sauce.

Add a little cornstarch slurry for the third time, reduce the sauce until it thickens and releases oil, sprinkle in the previously chopped garlic chive leaves, and gently stir a few times with a ladle to release the aroma of the garlic chives. It is then ready to serve.

Two earthenware bowls are placed on the stove. Mapo tofu is cooked and placed in the bowls, glistening with sauce and oil, white with a hint of red. A handful of Sichuan peppercorn powder is sprinkled on top, and green garlic sprouts and minced beef are added as garnishes, making it look quite tempting.

A truly excellent Mapo Tofu dish.

The results of the forensic examination have already been displayed in Zhou Yan's eyes.

Why isn't it perfect?
Because he just added water, while the authentic Mapo Tofu recipe should use beef bone broth. Tomorrow I'll set up a coal stove and cook a separate pot of beef bone broth; that will make it even more delicious.

"It smells so good! Uncle, this tofu tastes like beef!" Zhou Lihui exclaimed.

"I added two ounces of stir-fried beef brisket, so of course it tastes like beef." Zhou Yan smiled and placed a spoon in each of the two bowls, saying, "Huihui, take the Mapo Tofu out, be careful it's hot."

"Okay!" Zhou Lihui agreed, carefully carrying the two bowls of Mapo Tofu out.

Zhou Yan first took the crucian carp out of the pot, then reduced the broth and poured it over the fish, thus completing the dish of braised crucian carp with mint.

With the heat turned up, a plate of stir-fried pork liver was ready in no time.

Zhou Yan brought out two plates of stir-fried pig liver. Everyone was already sitting around the table, and Zhou Miao was pouring wine for the old lady and her great-uncle.

"Brother, sit with me~" Zhou Momo turned around and looked at him, patting the empty seat next to her.

"Come on, everyone's been waiting for you," Aunt Zhao said with a smile.

"What are you waiting for me for? Everyone, eat while it's hot," Zhou Yan said with a smile as he put down the dishes.

“If the chef doesn’t sit at the table, who would dare to pick up their chopsticks?” Zhang Zhengping said with a smile, his gaze falling on the Mapo Tofu in front of him with a hint of amazement. “Your Mapo Tofu looks quite authentic, glistening with sauce and oil, and it smells delicious. It even looks better than the Chen Mapo Tofu I had in Chengdu.”

"Isn't Chen Mapo Tofu the founder? How can it be more authentic than theirs?" the old lady asked doubtfully.

Zhou Yan smiled and said, "Your great-uncle has eaten authentic Mapo Tofu before, so you can try it first and see how good my Mapo Tofu is."

"Okay, I'll give it a try." Zhang Zhengping picked up a ladle and scooped a spoonful of tofu into his bowl. The tofu was coated with sauce and chili oil, and then wrapped with minced beef.

"It's fresh out of the pot, so it's a little hot," Zhou Yan reminded him.

"It's alright, tofu should be eaten hot, and a wife should be plump! Mapo tofu is all about being hot, it tastes just right." Zhang Zhengping picked up a piece of tofu and put it in his mouth, his eyes immediately lighting up.

The numbing, spicy, fresh, fragrant, tender, crisp, hot, and whole sensations all come together in one bite!

It's piping hot, but it smells amazing!
Zhang Zhengping swallowed the tofu with trembling lips, looking at Zhou Yan with amazement: "Wow! Your Mapo Tofu is amazing! I think it's even more authentic than the Mapo Tofu from the place behind our hospital!"

"I didn't fully appreciate the special features of the Mapo Tofu written on the wall when I ate it in his shop, but that last bite really made me understand!"

"The spiciness and umami flavor have permeated the tofu, making it incredibly smooth and tender. The beef topping is crispy and fragrant, and paired with the unique aroma of green garlic sprouts, it's absolutely delicious!"

"I'm going to get some food. This Mapo Tofu is a dish to eat with rice, not with alcohol. It's only truly enjoyable when eaten with rice."

As he spoke, Zhang Zhengping was about to get up.

"Uncle, sit down, I'll get it for you." Zhao Tieying was quick-witted and reached out to pick up his bowl and walk to the rice bucket next to him.

"Let me try it." Upon hearing this, the old lady scooped a spoonful for herself, picked it up with her chopsticks, and saw that the tofu was trembling and visibly tender. She slowly savored it and couldn't help but nod repeatedly.

"It's absolutely delicious! Much better than the one in Jiaozhou. It's spicy and numbing, the beef is incredibly fragrant, and the tofu is so tender. It's definitely a dish that goes perfectly with rice."

"Fourth brother, give me a bowl of rice too."

"Okay." Zhou Miao smiled, got up, took the bowl, and started serving rice.

Upon hearing this, everyone couldn't resist scooping a spoonful of Mapo Tofu into their bowls and tasting it.

"It smells so good! The tofu is so delicious!"

"I want some rice too! Mixing rice with this would be so delicious!"

"Mom, I need food!"

Everyone praised it highly and went to get their bowls to serve themselves rice.

Zhang Zhengping had already taken his rice bowl. He scooped a spoonful of tofu onto the rice, picked it up with his chopsticks a couple of times, and the tender tofu immediately broke apart. The soup, chili oil, and minced meat, mixed together with the tofu and rice, made it glistening and delicious. He took a big bite, and it smelled amazing!
"Wow! I haven't had such delicious Mapo Tofu in ages!"

"It's absolutely delicious with rice!"

"I'll think about it. Maybe I should ask my wife to let me stay in Suji for another month."

Zhang Zhengping's eyes narrowed, and his expression was one of pure enjoyment.

"As long as you're not afraid of Yu Rong coming after you, you can stay until the New Year without any problem," the old lady said with a smile.

"Forget it, I still have to go back and cook for her, otherwise she'll give me a real beating." Zhang Zhengping shrank his neck.

Zhou Yan also served himself a bowl of rice, and scooped a spoonful of Mapo Tofu on top of the rice. The spicy red oil coated the tender tofu and crispy minced meat. The perfect amount of thickening made the sauce just enough to coat the smooth tofu. The three thickenings were all to achieve the right consistency for the sauce.

If the sauce is too thick, it won't achieve a glossy sheen; if it's too thin, the flavors and toppings won't adhere. Mastering the cooking time requires considerable skill, which is why many Sichuan restaurants fail to make Mapo Tofu well.

The first sensation when you put Mapo Tofu in your mouth is that it's extremely hot!

The numbing aroma of Sichuan peppercorns, the spiciness of fermented broad beans, the savory aroma of fermented black beans, and the fresh fragrance of garlic sprouts create distinct yet perfectly blended flavors.

The beef topping is the finishing touch, adding a touch of beef flavor to the broth of this Mapo Tofu.

The crispy beef topping, cooked in the broth until it becomes crumbly, adds a delicious and fragrant flavor when eaten with tofu.

This bite is spicy, fragrant, tender, and piping hot!
Even Zhou Yan himself couldn't help but applaud, proving that the skill was evident in just one bite.

Perfect tofu, paired with perfect cooking skills, creates such an exquisite Mapo Tofu!

It smells so good.

Zhou Yan was certain that if they served Mapo Tofu tomorrow, it would be a huge hit!
He wanted to give the textile factory workers an ultimate culinary experience.

"Brother, is the tofu spicy?" Zhou Momo looked at the bright red Mapo Tofu with longing eyes, a little hesitant.

"It's spicy for you, and it's the kind of spicy you dislike the most." Zhou Yan smiled and put two pieces of pork ribs into her bowl: "Would you like to eat some meat?"

"Mmm!" Zhou Momo nodded and happily lowered her head to gnaw on the meat.

Zhang Zhengping shoveled half a bowl of rice into his mouth, then turned his gaze to the stir-fried pork liver on the side. He picked up a slice with anticipation and said with a smile, "Look, this is what pork liver should be like, sliced ​​evenly."

After saying that, he put it in his mouth, chewed it carefully, and immediately raised his eyebrows. After finishing a piece of pig liver, he showed everyone what it means to be beaming with joy, exclaiming, "This pig liver is stir-fried so tenderly! Spicy, numbing, and fragrant! Delicious!"

“If your uncle likes it, then eat more,” Zhou Yan said with a smile.

Zhang Zhengping said earnestly, "I'll send your aunt over to learn from you later, so she can see how to make stir-fried pig liver. Her method is such a waste that a pig dies in vain."

"If you dare to send Yu Rong here, I'll agree on Zhou Yan's behalf," the old lady said with a smile. "Then you can repeat those words to her in person."

“I’ll say it, it’s the truth, I’m not afraid at all,” Zhang Zhengping said firmly.

The old lady said earnestly, "You said it, right? When I get back, I'll have Weiguo write a letter to Yurong, inviting her to come and visit."

"Oh dear, Third Sister, it's rare for us siblings to get together. Why don't we invite someone from outside the family?" Zhang Zhengping said, getting a little impatient. "Let's eat, let's not talk about this anymore."

The old lady stopped talking and smiled very happily.

At this age, the old lady is quite happy to still have a younger brother to play with.

Zhou Yan also laughed, realizing that this great-uncle was indeed henpecked.

"The braised beef and braised vegetables are delicious too! The taste is so authentic. Zhou Yan's cooking skills are really good. Every dish is flavorful and delicious, a perfect combination of color, aroma, and taste!" Zhang Zhengping put down his chopsticks and looked at Zhou Yan with admiration, "This Suji Town is too small, it buries your talent. With such culinary skills, you should go to a wider world to develop!"

Before Zhou Yan could speak, the old lady said calmly, "You should only hold a bowl that fits your hands. If you hold a big bowl with small hands, you won't be able to hold it steadily and you'll easily break it. One person, one bowl of rice, just hold your own bowl well first."

　No extra chapter today, I'll add it all tomorrow! Please vote with your monthly tickets!
　　Writing this has made me hungry, haha.

　　
　
(End of this chapter)